Reimagining Footwear Retail at Scale: In Conversation with Kumar Nitesh, a visionary retail leader

Kumar Nitesh is a name synonymous with transformation in the Asian retail landscape. With over 24 years of experience across India, Thailand, Bangladesh, and the Middle East, he has consistently led organisations through high-impact change and sustainable and profitable growth. Today, as a C-Suite, visionary leader and a retail expert, he is at the helm of one of India’s most ambitious retail reinventions— driving innovation in product, format, and market strategies to empower homegrown retail brands and unlock the full potential of the Indian footwear industry.

Kumar’s leadership is defined by a customer-centric, data-driven approach that seamlessly merges operational discipline with creative agility. From launching disruptive and innovative retail formats and executing complex market entries to leading turnarounds of legacy brands, he brings unmatched strategic foresight. His leadership has been instrumental in revitalising legacy brands—transforming them into scalable and profitable assets through brand and product development with innovation to make the brand more relevant. These brands also have garnered market share through expansion in different channels like own retail, franchise, omnichannel and distribution.

While known for building high-performance teams, scaling brands across geographies, and consistently delivering double-digit growth, what really sets him apart is his ability to convert the unorganised segment of the market into an organised segment by offering high quality private label products, and building them into loved brands. The brands that he builds have further gone on to maximise market share. Under his leadership, brands are not only expanding their market share, but also leading the charge in retail-tech integration, private label development, and format innovation.

His philosophy is rooted in a powerful insight: “People don’t buy products. They buy stories, experiences, and quality.” This belief fuels a leadership style that is purpose-driven, empathetic, and performance-focused.

Excerpts from the exclusive conversation…

Let’s start with the current size of the Indian footwear retail market in 2024.

As of 2024, the Indian retail footwear market is valued at approximately Rs 127,500 crore (around USD 15 billion). This includes both organised and unorganised channels, spanning everything from economy and mid-range segments to premium and athleisure categories.

Footwear has become a key driver of India’s broader retail growth story, propelled by increasing formalisation, deeper brand penetration in smaller cities, and rising consumer aspirations. What’s especially exciting is that the market isn’t just expanding—it’s evolving in both quality and sophistication.

With consumers demanding better experiences and global trends making their way into Bharat, the sector is projected to grow at a CAGR of around 10%, reaching Rs 303,100 crore (approximately USD 35.7 billion) by 2033. This presents a tremendous opportunity to build brands that are both accessible and aspirational for the next generation of Indian shoppers.

What is driving this robust growth?

India’s footwear market is being propelled by a powerful combination of lifestyle shifts, rising aspirations, and product innovation.

Post-pandemic, there’s a heightened focus on health and fitness, leading to a surge in demand for sports and performance footwear. Simultaneously, rising disposable incomes are encouraging consumers to invest in premium products that offer both comfort and style.

A key driver of this transformation is India’s millennial population, which accounts for nearly one-third of the country. This group is looking for footwear that’s not just functional, but also an extension of their identity— shoes that reflect personality, values, and purpose.

Tech-driven innovations like smart shoes and fitness tracking features are also redefining the category, moving footwear from a basic necessity to a lifestyle statement. It’s an exciting space where fashion meets function, and in many ways, India’s journey in this segment is just beginning.

• Other structural tailwinds which have fueled this strong growth trajectory include:
• Over 65% of India’s population is under 35, creating strong demand for fashion-forward, branded footwear.
• Rapid urbanisation and rising disposable incomes are expanding the consumer base.
• Tier II & III cities are emerging as high-growth markets, with mid and economy brands expanding aggressively to tap into this underserved segment.
• Per capita footwear consumption is expected to double in the next five years.
• Additionally, India’s manufacturing cost advantage, coupled with government support for domestic production, is transforming the country into both a global sourcing hub and one of the world’s fastest-growing consumer markets for footwear.

Which category in India is growing rapidly and shows strong future potential?

Athleisure, in particular, has emerged as a powerful lifestyle category post-COVID. Health and wellness are now key priorities, and consumers are seeking clothing that supports active living while still being stylish and versatile. Whether it’s joggers at the airport or performance tees at brunch, athleisure has blurred the lines between fashion and function

What sets this category apart is its broad-based appeal—from young professionals in metros to aspirational consumers in Tier II and III cities, athleisure resonates across age groups and geographies. With rising urbanisation, digital exposure, and growing fitness awareness, athleisure has moved from being a niche trend to becoming a daily wardrobe essential. It’s a category where fashion meets function, and I believe its momentum will only accelerate in the years to come.

How are fashion preferences of Indian consumers evolving, especially in the context of footwear, casualwear and athleisure?

India’s fashion landscape is evolving at an unprecedented pace, and two major shifts stand out: the move from formalwear to casualwear, and the meteoric rise of athleisure. We’re witnessing a cultural transformation—consumers are transitioning from classic black and brown formals to more relaxed styles like denims, polos, and sneakers. This shift is fueled by hybrid work models, a younger workforce, and a growing desire for personal expression.

Today, casualwear isn’t just for weekends— it’s become a staple in daily wardrobes, including in semi-formal and professional settings. There is fast adoption of global trends driven by social media. In essence, Indian fashion is becoming more purposeful, comfort-driven, and emotionally led. For brands, the opportunity lies in designing for this new India—where consumers seek individuality, ease, and authenticity in what they wear.

How do you foresee external factors—such as economic shifts or changing consumer behavior—impacting your business strategy?

Consumer behavior in India is undergoing rapid transformation. Today’s shoppers—especially Gen Z and younger millennials—are more informed, experimental, and trend-driven than ever before. There’s a growing appetite for fast fashion, frequent wardrobe updates, and instant access to global trends.

Social media and influencer ecosystems have drastically shortened the trend cycle—what’s trending in New York or Seoul today is expected to be available in India tomorrow. At the same time, there’s an emerging consciousness around sustainability, ethical sourcing, and slow fashion, particularly among urban youth.

Externally, global economic shifts, inflationary pressures, and supply chain volatility are shaping how we plan inventory, manage pricing, and prioritise digital channels. Our strategy is focused on agility, customer insight, and omnichannel integration—so we can respond faster, remain relevant, and serve evolving expectations with consistency.

You manage a diverse portfolio of brands across different categories. What are the strategies that you employ to ensure success?

Managing a diverse brand portfolio requires clarity, segmentation, and strategic discipline. Each brand must have a distinct identity and roadmap, based on its market positioning, target consumer, and growth potential. We operate with a segmented model, ensuring that our mass, mid, and premium brands are managed with tailored product, marketing, and retail strategies—while still benefiting from shared platforms for supply chain, digital integration, and analytics. What ties it all together is a robust team structure, with empowered leadership at the brand level. This ensures agility, ownership, and strategic focus across the portfolio—while allowing us to scale efficiently and stay consumer-centric in every segment we serve.

What factors do you take into account before deciding to invent or introduce a brand?

We evaluate every brand opportunity through four key lenses:

• Consumer Relevance: Does the brand address a real and growing need in the market?
• Scalability: Can it expand efficiently across channels, geographies, and consumer segments?
• Product Differentiation: Does it offer something unique in design, quality, or value proposition?
• Portfolio Fit: How well does it align with our long-term strategic goals and existing brand mix?

What do you look for in a potential brand partner or franchisee?

We look for partners who bring an entrepreneurial mindset, a high level of operational discipline, and a deep customer-first approach. Alignment with our brand values is non-negotiable. In addition, we evaluate:

• Financial strength and scalability
• Commitment to brand standards and experience
• Strong understanding of local market dynamics

The ideal partner is one who sees long-term value in building a brand with integrity, consistency, and ambition.

What’s your perspective on balancing owned brands vs. franchised brands in terms of investment and growth?

In today’s dynamic retail landscape, the key to scalable and sustainable growth lies in maintaining a strategically balanced portfolio of owned (COCO) and franchised (FOFO) brands.

COCO stores are essential for building and reinforcing brand imagery. They offer full control over customer experience, store operations, and long-term brand positioning—particularly in high-growth, like-for-like (LFL) markets where consistency and strategic agility are critical. While COCO requires higher upfront CAPEX, the returns are often faster when managed with discipline, and the brand equity built is long-lasting.

Franchise-led (FOFO) models, on the other hand, are ideal for rapid expansion, especially in Tier II and III cities, where lower capital deployment is preferred. That said, FOFO requires robust training, SOPs, and performance monitoring to maintain consistency at scale.

Ultimately, our investment decisions are guided by market potential, category leadership opportunities, and return on capital employed (ROCE). Owned brands help drive differentiation and higher margins, while franchised brands enable depth and breadth in reach. The right mix creates a future-ready, capital-efficient retail ecosystem.

How do you support your COCO staff and franchise partners in maintaining standards and performance?

One must follow a 360-degree support model to empower both company-operated (COCO) staff and franchise partners. This includes:

• Structured training programs for onboarding and upskilling
• Detailed visual merchandising guidelines to ensure brand consistency
• Sales analytics dashboards for real-time performance tracking
• Use real time data analytics to drive inventory and effectiveness, driving freshness
• Regular audits and reviews to maintain quality and service standards
• On-ground coaching to provide hands-on support and continuous improvement

Our approach is collaborative and performance-driven, with the goal of delivering consistent brand experiences while supporting sustainable, profitable growth.

How do you keep your brand mix aligned with evolving consumer preferences?

We stay closely attuned to evolving consumer needs through a data-driven approach:

• AI-based tools and CRM systems help us gather and analyse real-time customer insights.
• Direct feedback loops through stores, platforms, and service teams allow us to adapt quickly.
• Our consumer insights team continuously monitors market trends, purchase behavior, and cultural shifts.

These inputs directly inform our assortment planning, design strategy, and brand positioning, ensuring that our portfolio remains vibrant, responsive, and ahead of the curve.

Can you elaborate on the operational changes that have led to improved logistics and reduced return rates?

In fashion retail, operational efficiency is critical—not just for margin protection, but for building trust and loyalty. We’ve implemented several key initiatives to strengthen logistics and reduce return rates. First, we streamlined inventory pooling across smart fulfillment hubs, enabling faster deliveries and reducing the need for split shipments.

Our reverse logistics systems have also been optimised—tech-enabled, cost-efficient, and scalable for high-volume returns. A major game changer has been our investment in improving product content and fit guidelines. Clear, accurate descriptions and sizing details have significantly reduced mismatches. We’ve also enforced strict quality control protocols at fulfillment centers—covering size, colour, and SKU validation before dispatch. This combination of front-end accuracy and back-end quality control has led to a 5–6% reduction in return rates, improved customer satisfaction, and strengthened repeat business.

What has been the impact of the latest quality mandate on the Indian footwear industry, and how is the sector navigating this transition?

The recent quality mandate has certainly introduced short-term challenges, especially for MSMEs and import-heavy brands. Compliance costs, certification delays, and supply chain disruptions created friction early on. However, this regulatory shift is proving to be a transformative milestone for the industry. By enforcing higher standards, the mandate is raising the bar on product quality, consumer trust, and global competitiveness. It’s also leveling the playing field, creating growth opportunities for manufacturers who’ve invested in strong quality systems.

In parallel, global tariff changes and evolving supply chains are prompting many international brands to consider India not just as a consumption market, but as a credible production base. The BIS regime, along with improved testing infrastructure and phased implementation, positions India to become a hub for both domestic and export-ready manufacturing. While the transition has required adaptation, the industry is emerging stronger, more compliant, and globally aligned—with long-term benefits for brands, manufacturers, and consumers alike.

Finally, what according to you is the growth potential of the women’s fashion and footwear category in India?

The women’s category remains one of the most under-penetrated yet high-potential segments in Indian retail. With increasing financial independence and purchasing power, Indian women—across both metros and emerging cities—are making more autonomous, aspiration-led buying decisions than ever before. What’s surprising is that, despite this rising demand, no women-centric brand has scaled beyond 100 exclusive brand outlets (EBOs) in India.

This highlights a clear gap—and a massive opportunity— for brands to build deeper, more meaningful relationships with female consumers. From fashion to footwear, the demand exists—but supply hasn’t evolved fast enough in terms of product depth, regional relevance, or retail accessibility. Brands that invest in truly understanding the Indian woman—her lifestyle, price sensitivity, aesthetic preferences, and fit needs—stand to unlock substantial growth. The next big wave of Indian retail will undoubtedly be powered by women-led consumption, and there’s an open field for purpose-led brands to lead the way.