So the fashion weeks have drawn to a close and it is time to list the trends that will dictate who will wear what in the coming year. As the runaways divulged, this season is all about newer and more unusual ways of dressing from the Borrow from the Man to the spritz of mauve and pink, electro furs, couture red and glitter lurex from head to toe.
Comfort reigns supreme, with anti-fit and fluid silhouettes replacing the form-fitted. Indigenous textiles and techniques get a shot in the arm and tunics emerge as the new mainstays. And in spite of the trend cycles, minimalism stays at the top of the game. Whether it is a revival initiative or a commitment to sustainability, designers are veering towards clothes with timeless appeal. “The fresh trends we are loving the most include high-slit tops, off shoulder kameez, crop tops and many more. Plus we are seeing some trends from the previous seasons, like floor length anarkali,” says designer Sabyasachi, giving a hint about what’s in vogue.
BASED ON THE FASHION WEEKS AROUND THE WORLD AND OUR INTERACTION WITH MYRIAD FASHION DESIGNERS, WE ROUNDED UP THE FOCUS POINTS OF THIS YEARS TRENDS IN WOMEN’S WEAR, RIGHT OFF THE RUNAWAY.
IT’S ALL ABOUT DARING
Cheek is the watchword for next season. You need a spine of steel to carry off the deluge of mauve and pink, electro furs, couture red and glitter lurex from head to toe that ruled the runways in the fashion capitals. The 1990’s minimalism may have dominated summers, but next winter will see colourful and sharp shoulders, corsetted waists, oversized streetwear and the puffy volume that is gaining fashion ground.
BORROW FROM THE MAN?
The use of masculine to accentuate femininity is one trend that has been here for a few seasons and it refuses to go away. Gender ambiguity is a nod towards the trend of the West, to embrace and express individuality with aplomb. The chunky boots with sweater over pinstripes as done by DKNY, plain check blazers paired with shirts and ties by Ralph Lauren and comfort fit pants by some Indian designers are all waving the flag of androgyny high. Max Mara got pinstripe suits flying off the runways.
Another variation is incorporating masculine elements into dressing a la pantsuits. Pantsuits are a common sight it appears and so is crazy as we notice bright glitter and amethyst hues. The power suits look great for this season and have all been given an interesting upgrade, from stripes down the body in coral red, against a black background to Taser prints on the whole of the suits, crazy star spangled designs all over, including on a matching hat and in a more modernistic approach of not wearing anything under the blazer but a sequined bra.
Some of the power suits, such as that seen on the Xiao Li runway looked pretty awesome with the wide pants and artistic accessories, the shoes underneath speaking of as much stylish comfort as the rest of the clothing on display.
CELEBRATING THE 80’S
Retro is resonating the world over in terms of fashion. And this means leather, fishnets, contrasting prints and anything that is proudly loud is back in business. At Giamba, the rock and roll era was revisited with graffiti miniskirts paired with bright turtlenecks. Just Cavalli was forever caught in the fishnets.
It is also prudent to note the use of zippers on skirts, giving it a more stylish edge. Leather skirts, big accents to the tops, transparent tanks, and tulle layered skirts only make things look more fun, with designers like Lorenzo Serafini and Moschino lighting up the runways with ease.
ON THE KNEES
Almost every designer worth his catwalk glam opted for modest sexy with hems that skimmed the knees. These midi hems usually stopped just over the knees but sometimes under as well. These hemlines are good for elongating the figure and making women seem (and maybe feel) even taller.
Herve Leger used this cut in warmer material while Prabal Gurung interpreted this style mixed with lace. Below the knee skirts add to the professional appeal of the garment, while maintaining its glam quotient.
Whether we are talking Calvin Klein or Michael Kors, the longer skirts are certainly lovely, especially when they appear with a small show of skin.
THE KEY PIECES
Bathrobes, the new trench coat, military jackets (that have been fanning the creative flames of designers) revamped with added bows, pompoms and oriental prints are all going to mix structured silhouettes with a bit of femininity. Jumpsuits appeared in a sporty avatar in the collections of Lacoste and even Louis Vuitton. Structured, almost geometric silhouettes in corsets (as seen at Louis Vuitton and Alexander McQueen) are the other
key pieces to covet. Talking of covering up, feminised biker jackets are also in vogue.
THE COLOUR PALETTE
In terms of colours, almost everyone seems to be seeing red – patent, laquered, matte and satin finishes set the runway on fire at Saint Laurent, Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe with a couture approach to form and volume ranging from conceptual to sex siren.
Purple is finding favour too. But the biggest trend is the fixation with metallics. High brilliance shone, literally at Balenciaga, Dolce & Gabbana and Michael Kors. A shower of metallic sequins, paillettes and mosaics of tiny mirrors created a futuristic look on runways and promised to shine next year as well.