India is one of the most important countries in the global textile industry, and its handloom sector has received special attention because of it. However, the contribution of the Indian handloom sector to the economy has not received much recognition. This article is an attempt at providing a positive perspective on the sector by emphasising on its contribution to the Gross Domestic Product.
The handicraft sector is a broad term referring to the retailing, manufacturing and distribution of handmade goods. It can be taken to include such businesses as clothing, household wares and furnishing with products such as furniture, lights, ceramics and tapestries. The handicraft sector plays an increasingly important role in today’s consumer economy with a growth rate of around 10% per annum in almost all countries.
India, a country with a rich cultural and traditional heritage, has been manufacturing textiles for centuries. However, many people in the world only think of it only as manufacturing cheap, mass-produced goods for other developing markets. The true artistry and craftsmanship of India’s textile industry is often left on the sides and is unseen by outsiders due to high import taxes on luxury items, restrictions on technology exports, and labour costs that compete with China.
India’s handloom and handicraft sector has employed close to 15 million people. Every day, approximately seven million women in India spend between 5 and 20 hours on handloom weaving. Weaving is their only source of income, which is often not enough to meet the cost of daily expenses. Out of these, around five million are officially classified as handloom weavers.
Handmade products are one of the most delicate traditionally crafted products, with the weft (woven in one direction) and warp threads (woven in the opposing direction). The misconception that what’s traditional is old and should be replaced with technology has taken away the charm of handmade products. In ancient times, these handloom products were only meant for the upper class – the royal families and their courtiers.
India’s handloom industry, which was already suffering heavy losses due to globalisation, was further struck by COVID-19. A sector that had been preserved much like a treasure is, for years, was suddenly impacted catastrophically. Economic loss, social tension and environmental degradation added to the troubles that the post-COVID world brought along.
The handloom/handicraft sector in India is one such sector that considers itself resilient in adapting to challenges. For years, Indian artisans have been struggling to balance their traditional work with the modern demands of the global marketplace. As trends keep changing, so do fashion and the market. When it comes to meeting demands, it becomes one of the greatest problems as products made on hand looms are time consuming.
The handloom/ handicraft sector in India is one such sector that considers itself resilient in adapting to challenges. For years, Indian artisans have been struggling to balance their traditional work with the modern demands of the global marketplace.
Solving the problem
There are many brands that are trying to give their customers the ability to directly connect with artisans. The way they operate is by turning artisans into small business owners and cutting out middlemen such as wholesalers, distributors and dealers. Customers can now order directly from these businesses even if they do not usually buy directly from manufacturers. This has allowed artisans to capitalise on selling through online marketplaces and social media marketing campaigns.
There are many brands that are trying to give their customers the ability to directly connect with artisans. The way they operate is by turning artisans into small business owners and cutting out middlemen such as wholesalers, distributors and dealers. Customers can now order directly from these businesses even if they do not usually buy directly from manufacturers. This has allowed artisans to capitalise on selling through online marketplaces and social media marketing campaigns.
Small enterprises are another important component of this sector, which employ an estimated 10 million people across the country. However, the sector is currently passing through a difficult phase because of various challenges. The gap between demand and supply of skill has been widening with each passing year, posing a major threat to the livelihoods of millions of people who are dependent on this sector. Indian embroidery is possibly the most popular and complex form of Indian textile work. India has a rich tradition of embroidery that spans several thousand years. The art form expanded when it was embraced by wealthy patrons who were inspired to decorate their clothing, furnishings, and personal accessories with intricate designs. The modern craft of Indian clothing embroidery can be traced to the last century when British colonial rulers established the textile industry in India. The British implemented modern techniques such as power looms and improved machinery to mass-produce clothing for the army, colonial bureaucrats and colonial subjects. Early in the 20th century, demand for luxury linens from European markets led to higher wages for Indian weavers, which enhanced India’s textile industry.
Despite these developments in the modern textile industry of the country and the increased demand for Indian textiles from global markets, the Indian government and organised trade unions have prevented companies from exporting finished products. This has led to a decline in large-scale embroidery manufacturing and exporting of luxury linens such as shawls, sarees and scarves.
With the advancement and proliferation of handmade products and technology, it has become increasingly simple for anyone to purchase a handmade product from anywhere in the world. With modern technology and skilled hands, we can say that the Indian handloom sector is in good hands.
Changes in import and export laws have been made by the government to help the Indian textile sector. Although the Bureau of Indian Criteria has set standards for the quality of Indian textiles, there are still barriers to the export of Indian linens.
Individual artists or small workshops have always produced handicrafts. Large-scale industrial manufacturing enterprises are increasingly able to sell their products to retail stores because of modern, automated manufacturing technologies. Corporate investment is expanding both within the country and beyond as a result of this global change, raising worry among traditional craft workers and customers who advocate a ‘buy local’ approach.This means that social equity is of great importance to artisan producers and many are creating schemes so that their work can continue to be sold directly from their homes or workshops. In spite of the resistance to some of the changes that large-scale manufacturing and distribution bring, there are many benefits for artisan producers who, by banding together, are able to reach a wider market, eliminate middlemen and therefore, cut costs.
In many countries where artisans are an important part of their economy, their numbers are diminishing as demand for their goods declines. In addition to the globalisation of production, this has also been due in part to consumer preferences changing from traditional products to cheaper alternatives such as plastic or metal.
Artisans are a small component of the broader sector in most nations, with little or no credit for their efforts. They are, nonetheless, recognised as essential contributors to the economy in many parts of the world, with some professions receiving government assistance or explicit legislation favouring their products in an attempt to maintain historic industries.
With the advancement and proliferation of handmade products and technology, it has become increasingly simple for anyone to purchase a handmade product from anywhere in the world. With modern technology and skilled hands, we can say that the Indian handloom sector is in good hands. With the passage of time, this is spreading like wildfire; after all, who doesn’t appreciate handcrafted goods!
