At the same time, leather industry is also a major contributor of pollution. One cannot forget nauseating black smoke, an overwhelming pungent stink in the air and the sight of a snow like white foam drifting across fields and water canals in Jajmau, the industrial suburb in Kanpur that houses close to 400 leather tanneries. The Leather industry releases large amounts toxic chemicals and acidic effluents which make their way into the sacred river Ganges. Kanpur is just one example. Just imagine the pollution caused by leather industry across the nation!

Keeping in mind long term effects, several companies which produce leather-based products like bags, footwear etc are switching to alternatives for genuine leather called synthetic leather.

Rise in Demand of Vegan Products

The trend towards ethical and sustainable products has led to a rise in demand for vegan footwear made from synthetic or plant-based materials, rather than leather or other animal products due to its affordability, durability, and eco-friendliness. Artificial leather, sometimes referred to as synthetic leather is a man-made material that resembles real leather in appearance and feel but is comprised of synthetic materials like polyurethane or PVC.

• Since, India is one of the largest footwear consumer and producer markets in the world, the size of the synthetic leather market in India is set to grow by $ 1,590.53 million between 2022 and 2027 and register a CAGR of 7.96%, according to Technavio’s latest market research report estimates.
• The Global vegan footwear market size is estimated at $157,898.2 million in 2020. It is expected to reach $3,199.6 million by 2030, growing at a CAGR of 6.8% from 2021 to 2030 as per another report.

According to various estimates, the vegan leather market worldwide will expand to nearly $90 billion by 2025, while the overall vegan fashion market will reach $837 billion by 2030.

Vegan Leather

Vegan leather, also known as faux leather, artificial leather or synthetic leather, is a type of material that is designed to mimic the look and feel of real leather but is made from synthetic or plant-based materials instead of animal hides. Traditional leather is typically made from the hides of cows, pigs, goats, or sheep, and the production process involves treating the hides with various chemicals and dyes to create the desired texture and color leading to the slaughter of billions of animals every year.

Even raising livestock for leather products is detrimental to the environment as raising cattle for its skin also results in the destruction of forests and the production of greenhouse gases like methane which is considered worse than carbon dioxide as per several experts.

However, vegan leather can be made from a variety of materials, including polyurethane (PU), polyvinyl chloride (PVC), recycled plastics, cork, pineapple leaves, mushrooms, and even apples. These materials can be processed and treated to create a texture and appearance that is similar to real leather.

Several brands, institutes and companies are working towards creating their own versions of artificial leather. Recently scientists and researchers from the CSIR-CLRI (Council for Scientific & Industrial Research- Central Leather Research Institute) in Chennai have developed a type of vegan leather from mangoes. Similarly a Kanpur based start-up called Phool has created an alternative to animal leather from flowers.

India is already a home to several vegan leather footwear brands like Malai, Happpy Sole, Senso, Paio, Monkstory etc. Internationally too, several brands have started creating an impact including Alkind shoes (UK), Matt and Nat shoes (Canada), Nae shoes (Portugal), Bhava (US).

The list seems endless as we have entered a golden age of cruelty-free leather and leather-based items that consider both animal welfare and environmental issues.

Factors for Rise in Demand

The growing demand for artificial leather and sustainable products in India has led to the development of a thriving industry. Indian manufacturers are producing a wide range of artificial leather products, including fashion accessories (bags, footwear etc), furniture, and automotive upholstery. The artificial leather industry in India has created employment opportunities for thousands of people, helped farmers and has contributed to the country’s economy and also has numerous environmental benefits

According to Shweta Nimkar, Founder & Chief Creative Officer, Paio, their brand is PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) approved vegan footwear. On vegan leather quality she explained that it was deficient in quality 5-6 years ago, colours would fade and material would peel over a year. The industry has managed to overcome these material challenges today. With a wide variety of colours and textures available there is no limit to what is achievable.

India is a country with large population of vegetarian people, hence there is a huge demand for animal-free leather footwear. Many brands have responded to this trend by offering more vegan footwear options, including sneakers, sandals, boots, and dress shoes.

Vegan leather production is less resource-intensive and has a lower environmental impact compared to traditional leather. It is also free from animal cruelty and its production requires less water and energy.

On demand of vegan leather, Nimkar added, “Vegan leather perceptions have changed over the years. Consumers are aware of the harmful effect of leather not only on the environment but even on the animals used for leather production. With growing knowledge and awareness, most consumers have mindfully shifted their beliefs and choices to purchase more sustainable and conscious production. The demand for vegan footwear has grown by over 7% CAGR over the last 5 years and is expected to be a market size of $300,199.6 million by 2030.”

Finally, vegan leather can also be more affordable than traditional leather, making it a popular choice for those who want the look and feel of leather without the high cost. Artificial leather is also easier to maintain as it is resistant to stains. This durability has made artificial leather a popular choice for products compared to genuine leather products that are subject to wear and tear.

According to various market reports and analyses, the women’s segment is expected to be the fastest-growing segment in the vegan footwear market. “This is primarily due to the demand of vegan footwear options for women in the market, as well as the growing awareness and preference for sustainable and ethical fashion choices among female consumers,” says Veena Ashiya, Founder Monrow Shoes.

Challenges

One of the challenges facing the artificial leather industry in India is the quality of the products. To address this challenge, the Indian government has introduced regulations to ensure that artificial leather products meet certain quality standards. Manufacturers are required to obtain certification from the Bureau of Indian Standards before they can sell their products in the market.

Indian manufacturers are investing in research and development to produce high-quality artificial leather products that meet the needs of consumers.

Another challenge is competition from genuine leather products. While artificial leather is more affordable and eco-friendly than genuine leather, there are still consumers who prefer the look and feel of genuine leather. To address this challenge, Indian manufacturers are producing high-quality artificial leather that looks and feels like genuine leather. This has helped to increase the popularity of artificial leather among consumers who are looking for a more affordable and eco-friendly alternative to genuine leather.

Indian manufacturers are investing in research and development to produce high-quality artificial leather products that meet the needs of consumers. Additionally, the Indian government is providing support to the industry through initiatives such as Make in India, which aims to promote domestic manufacturing. The footwear sector in India is now de-licensed and de-reserved, paving the way for growth of capacities on modern lines with state-of-the-art machinery. To further assist this process, the government has permitted 100 per cent foreign direct investment (FDI) through the automatic route for the footwear sector. 

Conclusion

According to a report, the footwear industry in India contributes about two percent to India’s overall GDP along with employing two million workers, making the sector one of the top employment generators in the country. As demand for sustainable and cruelty-free fashion continues to grow, we can expect to see more products made from vegan leather in the future and not only footwear. Due to factors like breathability, durability, and aesthetic quality of vegan footwear, some footwear producers are uncertain about its long-term market presence.

Despite its advantages for the environment, these factors might prevent its widespread implementation. However, with more research funding and greater public awareness surrounding bio-based leather created from plant and food waste, there is a substantial market opportunity. This is a significant opportunity for the sector to fund this eco-friendly substitute.

Sustainable, cruelty-free and vegan footwear brand PAIO was founded in 2015 by Shweta Nimkar with one simple agenda – to create conscious footwear with strong design elements inspired by everything around us, while making sure each product is comfortable.

A completely made in India brand, using locally sourced materials, PAIO’s ethos is based on the idea that fashion need not come at the cost of a precious life. In keeping with this philosophy, craftsmen at PAIO work with vegan leathers alongwith a variety of materials like faux-leather, hemp, cotton, jute, faux-silks – all sustainably sourced, cruelty-free, raw and comfortable.

Every product is carefully handcrafted by traditional karigars (craftsmen) who have inherited and perfected their craft for generations in an effort to support the broader community and keep the craft alive.

“Our embroidery is done through local craftsmen in the city who hail from various parts of the country. This is an art that is passed down through generations in their family which is now a dying art as the new generation is no longer choosing the same path,” explains PAIO Founder, Shweta Nimkar.

“I have personally scouted and found most of the vendors we work with. We do not have our own manufacturing unit but choose to work with multiple contract manufacturers across the country. We have identified their individualistic skill-set and get different types of shoes manufactured by different vendors. We work mainly with vendors in Mumbai and Agra,” she adds.

The D2C brand which retails through online channels only for now, is not a technology- dependent company as much as a keeping-up-with-trends company. They incorporate trends with innovative designs and churn out fresh, interesting products, but they do keep up with technology as well. Take for example 3D embroidery. This adds depth and texture to traditional embroidery techniques. This technique allows for more intricate and detailed designs, which can be especially striking when used on footwear and accessories.

Reducing Post-Consumption Waste

At PAIO, the management is abundantly aware of the amount of post-consumption footwear that reaches landfills and work hard towards creating a solution for the same. They maintain that they always aim to be one step closer to sustainability by ethically sourcing raw materials and implementing an eco-friendly production process – thus vegan footwear.

As the name suggests, vegan footwear is made without any animal-derived materials, such as leather, wool, suede, or silk. Instead, it is made from bio-based materials like corn, bamboo or apple or synthetic materials like rubber, canvas, microfiber, and recycled plastics. Sourcing these materials is tricky though, but Nimkar’s wanderlust takes her all over the country and this, coupled with her knack of finding raw material in unique places, results in shoes made from unusual, biodegradeable substances.

“We source locally, although most of the fabrics used in our shoes are sourced during my personal trips across India. Take for example our Ecoture collection. This has been crafted using material that has been made with a unique process of coconut water fermentation. This has a lower environmental impact as compared to leather – knowledge I acquired during my travels across the country in search of sustainable raw material,” she states.

The coconut material is biodegradable and compostable, the process of making it is equally sustainable, organic and eco-friendly with extracts being acquired from agricultural waste. The result – comfortable, durable shoes which are long lasting and don’t need frequent replacements and disposal

“No footwear is 100% biodegradable, however, by using vegan leathers and plant based leathers, we aim to take steps that further us to a more sustainable product which has a lower environmental impact as opposed to genuine leather,” Nimkar says.

Consumption Trends

As per a report by Future Market Insights (FMI), the global vegan footwear market is anticipated to expand at a 7.3% CAGR from 2023 to 2033, compared to a 5.9% from 2018 to 2022 due to increasing preference and growing consciousness among consumers about eco-friendly products, which in turn has fueled the demand for cruelty-free footwear.

As per Cognitive Market Research’s latest published report, the Global Vegan Footwear market size was US $40.9 billion in 2022.

FMI anticipates that the market could reach US $60.6 billion in the next decade, by 2033. Germany and the US have recorded the most growth in the vegan footwear sector in the last decade, with Germany’s growth projected to reach US $26.14 billion by 2030 and USA recording a market value of US $10.26 billion in 2021.

India too has shown favourable growth vis-à-vis demand for vegan products, especially products made from mushroom leather.

As per Cognitive Market Research, increasing cases of cruelty with animals and rising awareness regarding animal rights is the major factor that drives the growth of the global vegan footwear market. In addition, increasing government initiatives for reducing plastic waste and carbon footprint are anticipated to boost the demand for the global market.

Aside from this, increasing investments in R&D activities and rapid advancements in production techniques are expected to provide opportunities for the global market. Vegan shoes are also often more environmentally friendly than their leather counterparts. Since vegan shoes are usually made from sustainable materials, such as organic cotton or recycled plastic, or plant-based materials, they have a lower carbon footprint and require less energy and water to produce.

Also, awareness of in the use of fair trade and ethical labour practices, have also forwarded the cause of vegan footwear.

“Apart from being animal friendly, consumers are increasingly concerned with the working conditions of those who produce their products and are looking for brands that prioritize fair labour practices. The vegan footwear market is growing as consumers become more aware of the environmental and ethical impacts of traditional leather products and seek out sustainable alternatives,” explains Shinde.

She does feel however, that as a category, vegan footwear needs to be marketed more. The Cognitive Market Research report agrees with this, stating that the lack of awareness regarding vegan footwear, and the high cost of vegan footwear may hamper the growth of the global market.

“Building awareness is one of the main reasons that we have a varied target audience – which has a wide range of 15 to 55 years. This TG loves the fact that PAIO is so versatile, along with being pocket friendly, with products priced between Rs 1000 – Rs 5000 a pair,” explains PAIO Marketing Manager, Rutuja Shinde.

Managing Their Carbon Footprint

To reduce their carbon footprint and wastage, PAIO has also collaborated with 5RCycle Foundation that aims at creating a zero-waste management system, and through that also promotes the conservation of our environment, wildlife, and aquatic life.

“This donation drive ensures that all footwear and clothing items we have unsold or we receive in our exchange programs, will be repurposed by those at 5RCycle, Greensole and donated to those in need,” says Nimkar.

The world we live in today is on the brink of climate change, and one of the most significant issues is the use of non-eco-friendly materials in different industries. Sustainable alternatives are the way forward, Nimkar firmly believes. Brands like PAIO, Paaduks and Cai Store have begun to invest in sustainability and biodegradable raw materials like mango leather and mushroom leather as alternatives to animal leather with the hope that they can bring about a positive change to the environment.