The fashion accessory market has also evolved significantly with a growing emphasis on sustainability and eco-consciousness. As consumers become increasingly aware of environmental issues, the demand for sustainable accessories has surged. This shift presents a lucrative opportunity for brands that prioritise eco-friendly practices.

One brand at the frontline of championing the cause of sustainability is Ki Lee. Based in Seoul, Ki Lee was founded in 2017 with a specialisation in creating fashion accessories using plant-based leather alternatives. Since its inception, Ki Lee has showcased its collections at major fashion weeks in New York, Paris, Bradford, and Seoul, gaining international recognition. The brand’s products are sold in countries across Europe and Asia.

In a freewheeling chat with IMAGES Business of Fashion’s Kajal Ahuja, Ki Chan Lee, Founder, Ki Lee shares delves into what led to the inception of his sustainable brand and Lee’s visit to Anant National University in April this year to share his knowledge about sustainable design and fashion among the university’s students.

Here are the edited excerpts from the chat…

Tell us about your brand, its vision and mission.

Based in Seoul, Ki Lee was founded in 2017 with a specialisation in creating fashion accessories using plant-based leather alternatives. Currently, the brand is using cork fabric and mulberry fabric. Since its inception, Ki Lee has shown in multiple fashion weeks – New York, Paris, Bradford and Seoul, and has sold in countries across Europe and Asia. As designers, we are inspired by the problems that we see and try to solve those problems.

Personally, as a designer, I am interested in trying to make sustainable fashion, specifically, to make consuming sustainable fashion easier where people do not have to think twice about buying a fashion accessory that helps them express themselves.

In my opinion, I believe that as a society, we should have passed that point where people have to choose between sustainable or fashionable products. As a designer, my mission is to bridge that gap – by offering sustainable products that are also fashionable.

Also as a brand, we are experimenting with new materials and their functional and aesthetic possibilities by making new products and introducing these materials to consumers so that they see them as part of their fashion vocabulary.

What are the different kinds of accessories that you offer?

Currently, we offer women’s and men’s bags and small leather goods. And for runways, we also make one-of-a-kind body jewelry, bracelets, and small fashion accessories.

What encouraged you to use innovative plant-based leather alternative materials?

When I started designing jewellery, I started as a leather craft person. Leather is an intensive resource and precious for me as I make everything myself. When I would design, I would have the scraps put aside to be used later.

As I became more involved professionally and started collaborating with other designers, I encountered the challenge of managing inventory. For one season, I partnered with a local manufacturer to produce a relatively small batch. While I anticipated some difficulties, experiencing the process firsthand made me realise the crucial importance of using resources more intelligently.

After that, I decided that if I was going to work with manufacturers, I needed a reliable infrastructure to collaborate with and to compensate for potential resource shortcomings. This realisation led me to transition to using plant-based materials.

How do you procure these materials in a responsible manner?

Ki Lee uses two materials: cork and mulberry. As for procuring these materials, I work directly with the manufacturer – an Italian company called Lani Romero. Their close relationship allows Ki Lee to maintain high standards of quality and traceability. I am always on the lookout for new materials.

How important do you think it is to inculcate similar sustainable ways in mainstream fashion and design?

I think it is very important that fashion deals with these problems whether it be cultural, environmental, or economic. From a business perspective, at this point, if we do not inculcate this thought process to business of all scales, small businesses will not be able to survive.

Right now, fashion is just a big business as big brands have good resources and they have the ability to tackle these issues systematically and the government is enforcing this onto big businesses only. Small businesses, however, face a lot of challenges in dealing with the issue of sustainability because they lack resources.

Does your brand have a retail label?

Currently, we are selling through our own platform online. And in Korea, we have one offline stockist while we work with a German fulfillment service overseas. And we have just finished our collaboration with the Fufima service. We are looking into developing new ways of reaching a bigger market.

What is your vision and mission to visit Anant National University?

As a designer and especially a sustainable fashion designer, we are always thinking about where we can find our next exciting material including resources, inspiration, or infrastructure.

So for me, getting to come to a school that helped me to implement theories into practice. Interacting with the faculty and students here, and witnessing how things could be taught and thought differently was a big draw for me. So this is one part of it.

Another part was to come and see in person and then explore the future collaborations or opportunities – like a little student exchange. Additionally, I am also inspired by the rich textile history of Ahmedabad and here, I got to visit museums and experience things that I have not seen before. I am hoping to start my future collaboration by designing something that is inspired by my experience here.

According to you, what is the need to inculcate knowledge about sustainable design and fashion among young students?

I think the biggest reason for doing it is because students are already interested in sustainable designs. Unfortunately, in most cases, students are interested because our conventional design and fashion institutions are failing to address these issues. I believe that it is only natural that students are taught about the importance of sustainability in fashion design so that they become fearless about exploring all aspects of society and designs and by coming here, I wished to give them the opportunity and tools to identify these issues that should be central to all designs.

Conversations around sustainability and eco-consciousness have surfaced in recent years. In the midst of these changing scenarios, intimate wear, a significant but often overlooked segment of the fashion industry, has emerged as a critical player, leading the wellness revolution. More intimate wear lingerie brands are stepping up, paving the way for new trends that resonate with the changing times.

Body-Adaptable Intimate Wear
When it comes to purchasing intimate wear, the foremost concern that occupies consumers’ minds is the adaptability of these garments to ever-changing body types. Lingerie, by its very nature, requires an intimate fit to the skin, making any variations in size a potential source of discomfort. This has given rise to a significant trend within the industry, namely, the pursuit of more body-adaptable lingerie, which leads to the emergence of one-size lingerie. These innovative garments are specifically designed to seamlessly conform to the wearer’s changing physique, thus eliminating the need for constant size adjustments.

Typically catering to a range of underwear sizes between 24″ to 36″ or spanning from XS to XL, they are ingeniously engineered to expand and contract in harmony with the wearer’s body. This adaptability makes them not only a smart choice for accommodating maternity needs but also a practical solution to address the natural weight fluctuations that occur over time.

Plant-based Fabrics in Lingerie
A deliberate and meaningful trend that extends beyond mere aesthetics is plant-based fabric in lingerie. This remarkable shift in the world of intimate wear involves crafting garments from organic cotton and recycled plant-based fibers such as lemon, corn, yew tree, modal, and taxol. These choices have garnered significant popularity, owing mainly to their eco-conscious manufacturing processes. Increasingly, women are drawn to these sustainable options not only for their planet-friendly attributes but also for the comfort, style, and sensuality they offer, rivaling conventional lingerie. Its innovative use of fabrics, meticulously crafted from a fusion of organic cotton and recycled plant materials, results in a trifecta of benefits that women have come to appreciate: breathability, antibacterial properties, and the absence of harmful chemicals. What’s more, these garments stand as ideal choices for maintaining the health of the intimate area. They are known to help maintain the pH balance of the sensitive region, offering a plethora of additional benefits, including moisture-wicking capabilities, quick-dry technology, and a delightful super-soft touch.

Recyclability and Waste Reduction
One of the prominent trends in intimate wear is the growing emphasis on eco-consciousness and sustainability. The adaptability of lingerie to changing body sizes plays a significant role in reducing the need for frequent replacements. When combined with durable and long-lasting materials, this lingerie minimizes wear and tear, which aligns with the preferences of environmentally conscious consumers. Manufacturers are now focusing on creating undergarments that stand the test of time, reducing the environmental footprint associated with the fashion industry. This shift toward durability is a reflection of evolving consumer values that prioritize both quality and sustainability. It’s worth noting that achieving 100% sustainability in lingerie can be challenging due to the inherent need for elasticity and stretchability. However, a positive stride in the right direction involves the use of recycled fabrics like nylon and lycra, which contributes to breaking the cycle of waste and aligning intimate wear with eco-friendly practices.

Transparency in Processes and Certification
In an age where many consumers are well-informed about evolving trends, the spotlight is on brands to enhance transparency in their manufacturing and production processes. This increased transparency is a vital step in building credibility with their customers. As a result, numerous brands are now taking the initiative to showcase their processes and highlight their certifications. In the context of the lingerie business, many brands subject their products to rigorous laboratory testing and adhere to certifications that meet the highest international regulations and standards. These certifications aren’t merely empty marketing claims; they are firmly grounded in scientific evidence, instilling a profound sense of trust and confidence in consumers. In an industry where comfort, wellness, and sustainability are gaining ever more importance, these certifications serve as a testament to lingerie brands’ unwavering commitment to quality. They are more than just symbols; they represent a pledge to deliver the very best to their customers, ensuring that every intimate wear piece is not only stylish but also trustworthy.

Body Positivity Revolution
In the era of social media, the focus is firmly on the empowerment of body diversity, particularly in championing the confidence and beauty of plus-size women while challenging society’s outdated beauty standards. For far too long, plus-size individuals have been marginalized and underrepresented in the fashion world, facing the challenge of finding clothing, especially lingerie, that genuinely makes them feel confident and beautiful. Today, we witness a heartening shift as an increasing number of brands dedicate themselves to meeting the unique needs of women. Their innovative products not only address the fashion concerns of curvier women but also offer essential features tailored to their needs. This represents today’s brands’ unwavering commitment to uplifting and empowering their diverse customer base. It stands as a profound acknowledgment of the fact that beauty knows no size, and every individual deserves to feel both comfortable and confident in their intimate wear choices.

Self-Expression and Confidence
One of the most vital trends goes beyond promoting diverse beauty standards; it’s about fostering self-expression and boosting the confidence of individuals, regardless of their body shapes and sizes. In a fashion industry that recognizes and celebrates the diversity of its customers, people feel more inclined to embrace their bodies, knowing that they are not just seen but truly accepted. This era sees celebrities and influencers openly championing self-expression through fashion. This newfound acceptance empowers individuals to freely express their unique style, allowing them to select lingerie that aligns with their personal preferences. Lingerie isn’t merely innerwear or a fashion accessory; for many, it’s a means of enhancing self-confidence. By providing a wide range of options in terms of style, design, and size to cater to diverse tastes and body types, the intimate wear industry plays a pivotal role in helping individuals define and express themselves. Ultimately, it promotes a culture of self-assuredness and empowerment.

Bottom Line
Embracing these trends, the Indian intimate wear industry is well-positioned to play a pivotal role in India’s growing wellness revolution. This is particularly significant given the industry’s substantial market size, projected to reach an impressive US$ 8.2 Billion by 2028, compared to US$ 4.4 Billion in 2022 at a CAGR of 10.9% during the period from 2023 to 20282. The increasing awareness and acceptance of lingerie as an essential part of daily wear and fashion, coupled with the growing middle-class population’s higher disposable income, all play a vital role. Additionally, the rising influence of celebrity endorsements adds another layer to this dynamic